Mighty Mickey Mao

Well, it's with great relief and a slight reduction of my constant low-level annoyance that my pre-paid cell phone is now working. Give me a tinkle sometime. I wasn't sure how the cessation of service protected the security of the Nepal dictatorship, but there you go. Uh oh, I dropped the D bomb.

Things are quiet here in the Valley. There has been the occasional bomb, some of which were defused. A few exploded up in Jorpati up the main road a bit from Bouddha at a go-down or warehouse of some sort. One in Ratni Park that was placed in a bin (or garbage can if you prefer).

Outside the valley there was a significant attack (at least in my opinion) in Tansen. Who knows what goes on out in the countryside. I read the newspapers everyday but it's hard to get a sense of what's going on outside the valley since I've just gone once up the Arniko Highway to the Tibetan border.

There has been a call by Prachanda, the supreme leader of the Maoists to form an alternative government along with the seven major political parties. They go by one name, like Prince or Madonna cuz apparently it's good PR and psychwar tactics, as if to say I'm such a badass that I no longer require my last name. The US ambassador strongly warned against this yesterday in a statement, but what are folks supposed to do?

Sham elections (massive armored personal carriers parked outside polling centers?!?!), draconian control against any sort of significant protest, and a complete and total lack of real democracy really do limit the masses' options. I'm open to suggestions. How 'bout denying visas to all Nepali govermental officials and freezing their accounts in the US? How 'bout the US not training a Ranger force for the Nepali government. Ah, but Nepal has become a small pawn in the new Great Game between India, China, and the US, with a rapidly ascendant PRC providing an alternative to Nepal's traditional partner (some would say master) India. So has Pakistan, just to goose India, despite their good relations.

Look, no one has a problem with a constitutional monarchy. Lots of Northern European nations get along just fine with them, provided that the post is largely ceremonial. The king and the royal family could do a lot of good if they wielded the royal mana in a righteous way. They could become cultural ambassadors to the world for Nepal. People love Nepal, have for years, and probably will for a long time to come. Nepalis are lovely people, there are a ton of other ethnic groups around, incredibly scenery, and a large expat Tibetan population that has the ability, the means, and infrastructure to draw the curious and practicing Western Buddhists. Going out into the world as benevolent ambassadors would inhance these images. We'll discuss later some of the orientalizing aspects to them, but still... you do need revenue.

Meanwhile, the infrastructure, such as it is, decays. 17 hours a week of power cuts due to low water level in the hydroelectrical reservoirs. Last summer's monsoon was weak, but there has been no new power plant construction in years due to... you guess it, the insurgency. Hydropower could be a major Nepali industry with exports to India, despite the inevitable enviromental damage. There are massive dropoffs in tourist arrivals and hence tourist dollars, pounds, and Euros. I'd hate for my country or state or town or whatever to be dependent on tourism (right, Shawn? how 'bout New Orleans, corruption, and murder even before Kate the Shrew stomped on NO?), but there are really no other alternatives.

Well, to reiterate: things are quiet out here in Boudha. I suspect though, that the Maoists will step up their attacks since security has gradually loosen in the Valley. I wouldn't've attacked during the elections, the curfews, and on the anniversary of the beginning of the insurgency. I'd wait 'til after, to lull the government into complacency.

Meanwhile, I'm off for my daily Tibetan lesson with Dawa. I'll try and upload some new photos later.